🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.